Home Lawn Care Program That Work         
      
      
Having one of the best-looking and environmentally sound lawns in your neighborhood can be accomplished easier than you may think. You may
still encounter some lawn "problems" during the year, but you can reduce their probability by faithfully following the lawn care programs outlined
in this brochure. There are three (3) key parts to a good lawn maintenance program:

• Mowing
• Fertilizing
• Watering

They all work together to produce a quality lawn. Leaving one part out, or not following the plan to its optimum level, will give you less than the desired results.

A Mowing Program That Works

Many lawn care experts believe that a majority of our lawn care problems are a result of not mowing at the proper height…and not keeping our lawn mower blade
sharpened throughout the mowing season. Each type of grass has its specific height for optimum performance. Mowing to keep the grass at its best growing
height will increase your lawn's density and attractiveness, and reduce lawn care problems.

No matter the kind of grass you have, there is a simple "rule of thumb" to follow when mowing your lawn. Never remove more than one-third (1/3) of the leaf
surface each time you mow. Leaf surface, or cutting height, refers to the length of grass above the soil. Cutting below the optimum height impedes root
development, which is key to having a dense, healthy lawn. Use the following chart to determine the best growing height for your kind of grass and when to mow
it again.

Type Of Grass                Best Mowing Height          Mow When It Reaches

Bluegrass                                   2 inches                                   3 inches
Perennial rye grass                  2 inches                                    3 inches
Tall fescue                                 2 inches                                    3 inches
Fine fescue                               2 inches                                    3 inches
St. Augustine                            2 inches                                    3 inches
Buffalo grass                            2 inches                                     3 inches
Bermuda                                   1.5 inches                                   2.25 inches
Zoysia                                       1.5 inches                                    2.25 inches
Centipede                                 1.5 inches                                    2.25 inches

Note: Increase the mowing height 1/2 inch for shady areas, immediately following a drought period, or when the grass has been
weakened by insect injury or high traffic.

If you follow the "rule of thumb" on maintaining the optimum height and cut no more than 1/3 of the leaf surface, you can determine your cutting
frequency. So much depends on weather conditions, when you've fertilized, and the amount of water the lawn has received. And remember - keep
that lawn mower blade sharp! A dull blade will cause injury to the grass plant and produce stress…and increase the possibility of insect and
disease problems.

When you use the "rule of thumb," you don't have to collect the grass clippings. They decompose quickly and put nutrients back into the soil. It's a
built-in fertilization program every time you mow.

No - grass clippings do not create thatch! That's an old myth! Leaving the clippings on the lawn keeps them out of the landfills…and that's another
environmental benefit!

As a last note, there are a number of new "mulching" mowers on the market that cut the clippings into very small pieces, which allows for quicker decay. These
are not absolutely necessary to a proper mowing maintenance program, but if you're in the market for a new lawn mower, you should consider a mulching mower.

A Fertilization Program That Works

The goal of any fertilization program is to provide the lawn with the nutrients it needs for optimum growth. The most accurate way to find out those needs is to
have the soil tested. Soil test kits and instructions are usually available at lawn and garden centers, and at better hardware stores. Soil test services and
information are often available through your local County Extension office. If a soil test is not conducted, follow these general fertilization guidelines.

Most lawn experts agree that fertilizers with N (Nitrogen), P (Phosphorus), and K (Potassium) analysis ratios of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 are acceptable for use on any
lawn. Examples on the fertilizer bag that fit these ratios are: 12-4-8, 15-5-10, 21-7-14, 16-4-8, and 20-5-10. The experts also recommend that the fertilizer should
have at least one-half of its Nitrogen (N) in a slowly soluble/slow-release form, i.e. Natural organics, sulfur-coated urea, resin-coated urea, ureaformaldehyde,
methylene urea, or I.B.D.U. Lawns fertilized with one of these slow-release forms of nitrogen tend to have better color, thickness, and reduced leaf growth.

Fertilizer application rates should be as low as possible and still produce a high quality lawn. If the amount of nitrogen (N-the first number of the analysis on the
bag) is between 5 and 12, then the application rate should be 8 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If the number is between 12 and 18, the rate of application
should be 6 pounds per 1,000 square feel. Anything over 19 should be applied at 4 pounds per 1,000 square feel of lawn. This is a good "rule of thumb," but
always apply the fertilizer at the recommended rate listed on the bag.

The best time to fertilize your lawn is when it's actively growing and in need of nutrients. For Southern lawns, this means beginning the program just after spring
green-up and stopping about two months before the average frost date in the fall. For Northern lawns, begin the program as the lawn begins to grow and green-
up in the spring, then reduce applications as the weather gets hotter. When the cool weather returns in the fall, the lawn can again be fertilized. A late fall
application, after the first frost, has been shown to increase lawn quality the following spring.

Fertilizer application dates and frequency are based primarily on which form of nitrogen the fertilizer contains. Those that have at least one-half of its nitrogen in
slow-release form should be adequate for 6 to 8 weeks. If the lawn still has good color and is growing well at the end of this period, then delay the next fertilizer
application a little longer.

Also, if you leave your clippings on the lawn, you are fertilizing the lawn almost on a continual basis…possibly extending the time period between commercially
manufactured fertilizer applications. Lawn fertilization is truly the case of a little occasionally is good, but a lot at one time is bad for the grass.

A Watering Program That Works

The best lawns grow when they are watered heavily at infrequent intervals. On an average, the lawn needs about 1 inch of water a week, either from rain or
irrigation during the growing season. This one-inch of water will normally soak the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, which allows the water to reach deep into the
root system.

Soil types vary in the speed at which water will soak in. If you know your basic soil type, use the following table as a general guide to watering.

Soil Type          Infiltration Per Hour     Time Required For 1 Inch To Soak In

Sand                        2.0 inches                                   0.5 hours
Sandy loam            1.0 inches                                   1.0 hours
Loam                       0.5 inches                                   2.0 hours
Silt loam                  0.4 inches                                   2.25 hours
Clay loam               0.3 inches                                    3.3 hours
Clay                         0.2 inches                                    5.0 hours

You must determine the rate of application of your sprinkler system to set up any irrigation program. An easy way to do this is to set out a series of straight-sided,
flat-bottom cans if you have an underground sprinkler system or a couple of cans if you use a single sprinkler. Run the system 30 minutes and measure the water
in the cans. With a little simple math, you can determine the length of time to apply one inch of water.

Watch for runoff during the watering period. It is very possible that your lawn will not be able to soak up the water as fast as your sprinkler is putting it on the
lawn. If this occurs, shut it off and wait on-half hour, then turn it on again. Also, remember that sloped areas will have more tendency for runoff.

The best times to water your lawn are in the early morning or early evening when there is generally less wind and heat. The lease desirable times
are in the heat of the afternoon, when water evaporates too quickly, and very late in the evening, which can cause the lawn to stay wet all night. This encourages
disease development.

Over-watering is much worse than under-watering. Most grasses can live through reasonably long periods of drought. Water only when the soil is
dry 4 to 6 inches below the surface. Use a screwdriver or other probe to determine dryness. Also, if the grass doesn't spring back up after walking
on it…it's probably time to put another inch of water on the lawn.
The following is a partial list of the dangerous types of plants. Please note this list is not all-inclusive. This list
was compiled from the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center’s "Household Plant List" and reflects
clinical signs associated with ingestion of the plant by dogs and cats.



Aloe (Aloe species)

· Vomiting, depression, tremors.

Amaryllis (Amaryllis species)

· Vomiting, depression, diarrhea, stomach pain, inappetence, tremors.

Azalea (Rhododendron species)

· Similar acting plant species = Andromeda Japonica, and Rhododendrons

· Vomiting, diarrhea, central nervous system collapse, cardiovascular collapse, coma, hypotension, weakness, death.

Autumn Crocus (Colchicum species)

· Bloody vomiting and diarrhea, shock, kidney failure, liver failure, bone marrow suppression.

Bittersweet, American (Solanum species)

· Plants that could cause similar problems include European Bittersweet, Deadly Nightshade

· Weakness, convulsions, vomiting, diarrhea, decrease in heart rate.

Buckeye (Aesculus species)

· Severe gastroenteritis, central nervous system depression or hyperexcitability, coma.

Castor Bean (Ricinus species )

· Usually a lag period of 48hours before signs appear

· Beans are highly toxic! Two to 4 beans can be lethal to adult humans!

· Severe gastroenteritis, oral pain and irritation, increase in thirst, kidney failure, convulsions, death.

Chinaberry Tree (Melia species)

· Fruit is the most toxic, but leaves, flowers, and bark can also be.

· Decreased heart rate, depression, weakness, seizures, shock, severe gastrointestinal upset.

Christmas Rose (Helleborus species)

· Abdominal pain, convulsions, delerium, vomiting and bloody diarrhea.

Cineraria (Senicio species)

· Plants that could cause similar problem include German Ivy and Ragwort

· Liver damage, depression, weakness, gastrointestinal upset.

Corn Plant (Dracaena species)

· Similar plants include: Baby Doll Ti, China Doll, Gold Plant Dracaena, Madagascar Dragon Tree, Ribbon Plant, Corn Stalk Plant, Florida Beauty,
and Hawaiian Ti.

· Vomiting, occasionally with blood, depression, inappetence, incoordination, and weakness.

Cycads (Cycad species)

· Common name is Sago Palm

· Very toxic plant…a few seeds can cause problems.

· Liver failure, bloody gastroenteritis, blood clotting problems, death.

Daffodil (Narcissus species)

· Bulbs are the most toxic part.

· Severe gastrointestinal upset, convulsions, tremors, hypotension, weakness, cardiac arrhythmias.

English Ivy (Hedera species)

· Gastrointestinal upset, hyperactivity, breathing difficulties, coma,

muscular weakness, incoordination.

Foxglove (Digitalis species)

· Life threatening cardiac arrhythmias, cardiac failure, weakness, gastrointestinal upset.

Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina species)

· Discolored mucous membranes, slow heartrate,

respiratory difficulties, convulsions, respiratory failure, and death.

Holly (Ilex species)

· Intense vomiting and diarrhea, depression.

Hyacinth (Hyacinth species)

· Intense vomiting, diarrhea occasionally with blood,

depression, and tremors.

Hydrangea (Hydrangea species)

· Gastrointestinal disturbances, increased rate of breathing,

depression, and increase in body temperature.

Iris (Iris Species)

· Abdominal pain, drooling, bloody diarrhea and vomiting.

Japanese Yew (Taxis species)

· Very TOXIC!

· Cardiac failure, sudden death, tremors, breathing difficulty.

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum species)

· Gastrointestinal upset, possible stomach ulceration, seizures, central nervous system and respiratory depression.

Lily of the Valley (Convalaria species)

· Incoordination, vomiting, cardiac arrhythmias

Marijuana (Cannabis species)

· Prolonged depression, respiratory depression, incoordination, coma.

Mushrooms

· ALWAYS assume that any ingested mushroom is highly toxic until that mushroom is identified by a mycologist.

Toxic and non toxic mushrooms grow can grow in same area.

Mistletoe (Monstera species)

· Gastrointestinal upset, cardiovascular collapse, breathing difficulties, hallucinogenic behavior.

Morning glory (Ipomoea species)

· Incoordination, hallucinogenic behavior, stomach upset.

Nightshade (Solanum species)

· Inappetence, severe gastrointestinal upset, drowsiness, depression, weakness, decrease in heart rate.

Oleander (Nerium species)

· Highly toxic!

· Contains cardiac glycosides.

· Cardiovascular abnormalities, decreased body temperature, abnormal pulse rate, gastric upset, and death.

Precatory Bean (Abrus species)

· Beans are very toxic!

· Severe vomiting and diarrhea, increase in body temperature, incoordination, inappetence, and death.

Rhubarb (Rheum species)

· Kidney damage

Tobacco (Nicotiana species)

· Can cause hyperexcitability, tremors, convulsions, increase in heart rate, death is due to respiratory depression.

Tomato Plant (Lycopersicon)

· Leaves and stems contain toxic priniciples

· Severe gastric upset, depression, weakness, decrease in heartrate.

Tulip (Tulip species)

· Intense vomiting, depression, diarrhea, drooling, and inappetence.

Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow (Brunfelsia species)

· Gastric upset, depression, weakness, decrease in heart rate.

Yew (Taxus species)

· Sudden death from cardiac failure, tremors, breathing difficulty.

Yucca (Yucca species)

· Vomiting, depression, diarrhea, hypersalivation, seizures.


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